A book by Fabio Parasecoli, professor of nutrition and food studies at NYU Steinhardt, received a 2023 World Cookbook Award in the Food Heritage (USA) category.
Gastronativism: Food, Identity, Politics explores the phenomenon of “gastronativism,” the ideological use of food to advance ideas about who belongs to a community and who does not. In it, Parasecoli connects the transformation of food systems with the rise of globalization and neoliberalism, as well as with efforts by communities worldwide to respond by embracing local ingredients and notions of cultural heritage while also running afoul of nationalist and xenophobic political projects.
Presented by Gourmand International, the World Cookbook Awards screen over 100,00 books and publications from 230 countries and regions to present a comprehensive picture of the world of food and drink. The scope of this selection reflects an international passion for cooking, as well as the immense food challenges of the 21st century.
“Culinary nationalism has become a visible and mediatized phenomenon: think about the hummus wars between Israel and Lebanon, or the tensions between Ukraine and Russia about borsch,” Parasecoli said. “The lens of gastronativism allows us to connect nationalism with other dynamics such as religion, class, gender, and race, allowing for a more intersectional approach to the issue of the role of food in identity politics.”
Gastronativism also explores how to channel pride in culinary traditions toward resisting transnational corporations, uplifting marginalized and oppressed groups, and assisting people left behind by globalization.
“This award indicated to me that it is possible to write about what we study in academia in ways that are accessible to the general public. Over the years, widespread communication of my research has become a focus in my scholarly work,” Parasecoli shared.
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